Monday, June 02, 2008

Great Wall...the camera, not the wall.


The Great Wall camera is a bit of a mystery. A little bit of quality and a little bit of junk. A bit of history is in order, I think. Gathered mostly from this site. Stretch your legs and get comfortable, because this is going to be a long one.
Hailing from China, it was designed to be a cheap, all-around camera for students to use. It was designed by Bi Guoguang (毕国光...someone was nice enough to translate for me, so I'm correcting it throughout), but he graduated from a university with plans to work in the automobile industry. In June of 1956, he was assigned a position as the only plant technician at the factory that preceded the Beijing Camera Plant, became deputy chief of design, the testing branch chief, and then in 1984 became the director of the newly named Institute of Beijing Camera Plant. He retired (I think) in 1987. He worked with cameras using a magnifying glass as he had poor eyesight, but still worked with enthusiasm.
In the early 1980s, a meeting was formed with the director, secretary and research department to discuss the creation of a Hasselblad imitation. Bi Guoguang put forth a proposal to design a camera a based on the German Pilot, produced by Kamera Werkstatten AG in the 1930s. There was also a Taiwanese copy of the the camera, which lead him to believe that an imitation was possible in China.


Only one other team member agreed with the proposal, while the others held a negative attitude. Nobody could agree on a camera design.
Bi Guoguang chose the Pilot not only because of the relatively simple structure, but because he liked it. Having borrowed one and played with it for some time, he felt the camera was due for an improved redesign in China. The Seagull TLR was available at this time, but the price was too high to meet the needs of the people. He thought that if they produced a simple and durable structure with a single lens reflex and the use of 120 film, the camera must be popular.
According to his research, producing the imitation Pilot at the plant would not be a problem. Furthermore, with a design that allows a removable lens, a wide-angle lens and what translates as a Coke bottle lens could also be produced for the camera. Also, the camera lens could be used as an enlarging lens, giving the camera dual uses and reducing costs for the photographer.
In spring, Bi Guoguang was approached by the director, who stated that a final decision was made adopting the 120 SLR program, and asked for drawings as soon as possible.
Bi Guoguang called his friend, Deputy Chief Guo Zhong Ji, who agreed to drive over and help with the design of the camera. They spent more than 30 days working on the design for the Great Wall, producing almost 300 parts drawings. They were racing against time to produce the camera as quickly as possible. Normal production time for a new camera was two years, but they didn't want to spend that much time. Many workers joined in the mission to produce the 300 parts for the prototype, with the director approving overtime and bonuses (and apparently drinks all around). Everyone seems to have been very excited about the new camera.
The first prototype exposed some problems, mainly with light leaks, and some shutter issues.
At this time, a minister of the New China Machine Industry Ministry had two ambitions -- to produce something big, namely a hydraulic press for use in Shanghai shipyards, and something small, that being high quality cameras. Studying the Great Wall SLR prototype, he decided that he liked the camera very much, and he formed or joined (I can't tell...it seemed he felt awkward about taking over control of the design) a technology research group to improve upon the design.
The camera became a major project of Beijing Municipal Bureau of Instruments. The psychological pressure to produce a working camera was great, and after more than a month of research, breakthroughs were made, and finally the camera design was agreed upon by the China Quality Certification Center and production approved.
At this point, the first mass production of a simple China 120 SLR camera was born.
Bi Guoguang was awarded and also received 60 yuan bonus, equivalent to one month's wages (this is about $9 US today). He had planned to design and produce two more lenses for the camera, the wide-angle and the Coke bottle, as well as improve the shutter speed of the camera. However, there was not enough time to achieve these goals, and he was later transferred out of the department. Since then, this 'beautiful idea' of his life is a lingering regret.
The camera was sold in China for 115 Yuan (approximately $16 US) and was also exported to West Germany, mainly for use by students. It was sold in small quantities in Europe and the US as well, though considered to be 'low-grade goods' in these countries.
Multiple masks and spools were produced for the camera, allowing for 6x6, 6x4.5, as well as 35mm and 828, making the Great Wall camera the first universal SLR camera.


There have been subsequent models of the Great Wall, starting with the original, then the DF-2, DF-3, DF-4 and DF-5. There is supposedly a DF-6, but I haven't found any proof of this. Each model sports slight improvements, such as the addition of (I think) flash capability and a self-timer. There are also models labeled as Chang Cheng, which is just Great Wall in Chinese.
This is from the site...figure it out for yourself, as I have no idea what the poorly translated "with Pen" means. I'm assuming it refers to the self timer, as that was the first model with that particular addition.
Type 1 / early
Type 2 / Popular
Type 3 / with Pen
Type 4 / band Shoe Outlet
Type 5 / band Shoe Outlet, flashlight socket
I'm not sure if these cameras are still produced, or if those available are pre-existing stock. From the article, I gather that there is just warehouse stock. And I'm not sure about the production dates and when production ceased, etc. (and even what year production actually began...somewhere around 1984). But the camera has gathered quite a following, for reasons I will talk about next! Yes, enough of all this history stuff...let's check out the camera!



You can see the lens screws off...but the lens is part of what makes this camera so special! It sports a 90mm lens that has the following stops: 3.5, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22. So you can get incredible depth of field and pinpoint focusing. But more on that later. Let's look at the rest of the camera. It has an exposure chart on top, in Chinese, so even more useless for me than it would be if in English. Windows on the back for both 12 and 16 shots, depending on the frame. I've looked at the wrong window a couple times when advancing, overlapping my shots. Nice slider to prevent leaks from the windows. The usual tripod mount.




Opening up the back, it loads from top to bottom, like most TLR cameras. I'm sure, if you knew how to read it, the serial number would tell you when and where it was made. Probably what shift produced it. Or maybe it's just camera No. 0043558 out of however many were produced. Loading is pretty easy. The bottom spool fits very tight...I assume that the modern plastic spools have a bit more thickness on the ends than the older flat metal spools. It advances fine once the spool is in place...it's just a bit difficult to angle the spool into place.



Looking at the top, it works pretty much the same as a TLR. It unfolds and you look down to frame.


The view through the finder is super sharp, and because it is an SLR (single lens), what you see through the finder is what you are actually shooting. A TLR (twin lens) has you looking through the top lens to frame the shot, while the image is actually shot through the bottom lens. In fact, the mirror that shows you the image in the Great Wall is also the shutter.
Looking through the viewfinder at F3.5 (shutter wide open)...



Okay, now a bit of the goofiness of the Great Wall here. Because you are actually looking through the lens to frame your images, you are at the whim of the f-stop. So, the smaller the f-stop, the smaller the hole to see through. Now, the film is sensitive enough that it does what it does. But that viewfinder...when you make the aperture smaller, you reduce the incoming light, in turn reducing image clarity in the finder. This is looking through at F11.


And then at F22.


And the digital camera sees more than I can see with my eyes. All I see is a gray square. So...you mostly need to frame and focus your image at 3.5, and then switch it to 22 if needed. Very odd and not very user friendly, but just one of those 'things'.
Also on top is a magnifying glass for pinpoint focusing. You put your eye right up to the glass to focus, then flip it back to frame.



So, how does the camera work? Well, this is a bit funny, too. When I first got it, I thought it didn't work. Took me a couple minutes to figure out what was going on. I have a set of instructions...in Chinese. So here is the side of the camera.


The film speed is set on the side. You have to pull the knob out and twist to set the speed. I didn't figure this out until I had already shot a roll. You can set it for Bulb, 30, 60, 125, and 200. So, #1, you advance the film, using the counter window to see your exposure number. You will hear clicks. This is the mechanism to prevent double exposures. If you want multiple exposures on a single frame, push #4 up, which disables the mechanism for a shot. After you have advanced your film. You twist #2 until it clicks. This is important! There is resistance, and what you are doing is cocking the shutter, actually lifting the mirror into place. If you don't twist it until it clicks, it will snap back. A friend used the camera once and noted that if you let it snap back, it can make the film slide back, creating overlaps. She didn't like that. Hasn't been a problem for me. So after cocking the shutter, you fire the shutter with #3. And you hear a big thunk as the mirror snaps back down. So...this is not a quick, point-and-shoot camera. You have to unfold the thing, spend some time focusing and framing, then go through all the steps to fire the shutter. Let's try this...my first crappy quality video on my blog. Not too keen on the video thing, but maybe just this once.



After all that, is it worth it? I think so. Again, with the Great Wall cameras, it's all about the depth of field, or bokeh as it is sometimes referred to (though that word can sometimes garner sneers). And you get this fantastic DOF for a reasonable price. Many people spend four times as much for just a lens that will give you decent DOF, as well as the camera to put the lens on. I'm not much of a camera snob, so I'm open to 'lower grade' cameras that I can actually afford and will actually enjoy, as opposed to having a bunch of overpriced equipment. Anyway, enough of that. Here are a few examples set at F3.5, with the super pinpoint focusing.






And just so you see it's not just a one-trick pony, you can also take some nice, sharp shots at 22 (and all the settings in between, of course).





These were all shot without a mask, leaving a slightly blurry edge. There is a 6x6 mask, but mine only came with the 6x4.5 mask. I'm not sure how you would count your frames with the 35mm mask and spool, but I'd like to get the entire set some day.
So that is the Great Wall camera! It's a nifty bit of communist Chinese craftsmanship. A big chunk of metal, a bit of hand-tooled industrial strength camera in your hands. Where can you find one? eBay is the best bet. Here's the killer, though...the price. Average price on eBay is anywhere from $120-$180, plus shipping (usually from China). If the price is lower, then the shipping is higher, which is the norm for eBay (and one of the things I really hate...only 99 cents! plus $49.99 shipping). This is a camera that originally sold for about $16 US. And...is still usually around 180 to 280 yuan in China today...or $25 to $45 US, depending on the model. Shipping from China outside of eBay usually runs from $20 to $35, depending on the total weight. Plus a wire transfer fee. Still, finding one directly from China cuts the cost of the camera in half. But you have to find one, and you have to be able to communicate to a willing Chinese seller in Chinese. It's doable, but you have to be committed to the process. I got mine from eBay, but I've successfully ordered other cameras from China.
For more photos, check out the flickr Great Wall Camera group. This site also has some information, including a PDF download of the different Great Wall models.
Check out this sweet looking camera, the Olympus Eye Flex:


I'm not sure if they were even publicly available (seems to be a prototype), but I'm keeping my eyes open for one, or a similar model.
Until next time. Heading up to Bedrock City this week! Excited.
Do want.
And this is pretty amazing, too.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Ye Olde SX-70 Magick


I debated about doing this post, as there is a lot of info about Polaroid's SX-70 camera on the Web already... I figure a lot of this is redundant. But, what the heck. I still see tons of questions on forums and flickr and such about the cameras and using 600 film in them, so maybe this will help one or two. Plus I can show off how pretty my SX-70 is now. And it obviously shoots out cool Pink Floyd laser beams, as you see in the picture above, so that's worth another interweb article.
I got my Alpha 1 Model 2 on eBay for a decent price. I was really patient and waiting for just the right "buy it now" deal. And it came with some flashbars, which are kind of expensive as an individual item. I chose this particular model just because it seemed to have more nice words said about it on the Web. Born in 1977, it was the one of the final folding non-Sonar models, and just seemed to have the best combination of features: split-image rangefinder, a distance scale on the focus wheel, tripod socket, built in clips for a strap, and fill flash capability. I know most people prefer the original, but whatever. I didn't want to spend $200 for an SX-70, either, with fewer features. And some people say, well, the original is metal so it's better. Sorry, still plastic, it's just plated with metal. Get over it.
So, one of the 'features' of my camera was the Porvair covering. This is a fake leatherette that is moderately ugly, and mine was beginning to rot and flake.


It certainly gives it a nice 1970s vibe (sans fake woodgrain), but I decided that since the rest of the camera was in near perfect condition, I wanted to dress it up a bit. I ordered a new skin from aki-asahi. Good service, fast overseas shipping. I couldn't really find anyone else who makes these (besides making one myself, but I didn't want to hassle with it), but the price was good and they did good by me overall.
When I got the package, I was like, wow! They sent me a free skin!


Well, the white skin is labeled 'for practice'. The process is so simple, though, I didn't use it, so I have a white covering if I ever want to use it.
Pulling of the old skin was a pain...in the ass. Sure, it looks like it is flaking off and hey, maybe it will just fall off. That flaking is only on the surface. The full skin is really, really stuck to the camera. Getting up a corner to pull was tough enough, and then it kept breaking off in little pieces. And that brown surface just flaked off into dust. It was pretty gross. I probably have Porvair disease now from breathing it in. But I did eventually get it all off. I didn't take any pictures just because it was too messy and nasty.
Here are some sexy pictures of a naked SX-70. You might want to move the children to another room.




Okay, you can open your eyes again. I cleaned that hard glue off the bottom metal plate with rubbing alcohol. All the directions are on the aki-asahi site, so I didn't really have to put much thought into the process. I got the new skins on in about five minutes, let it dry for awhile and viola! Sexy new SX-70. I love you SX-70, you make me hot.




Like converting a Gremlin into a Porsche.
So, okay, I've talked a little bit about this before, but what exactly do I use in my SX-70? It was originally intended to use Time Zero film, which hasn't been readily available since I think 2004. And now it costs upwards of $50 a pack on eBay (Edit: I'm seeing a 5-pack go on eBay for almost $500. That's just stupid). I had to make 600 work in my SX-70. That's what kept me from getting one for awhile, because it just all sounded so complicated (and I'm actually fairly lazy, believe it or not...that's why I don't own any complicated TLRs with lots of buttons and knobs and switches and such). The problem is that the exposure for Time Zero is much greater than 600, so you blow out the image when you use 600. It is waaaay overexposed.
Well, you have a couple options. You can go the complicated route, which is an internal electronic modification to adjust for exposure. Some say this is the only 'true' way to achieve optimal photo exposure and quality. It wasn't something I wanted to mess with. Vague directions about replacing the capacitor can be found here.
The second option is to reduce the amount of incoming light with filters. You have two options here - to fit a 2-stop neutral density filter to the lens, or fit a filter to your film pack. The SX-70 Blend film that was recently available on unsaleable was probably just 600 or 779 (there is an ongoing debate about which film they used), and they stuck a dark filter over the opening on the pack. You can also buy filters for your pack on eBay and somewhere on the Web. There is a Japanese company that makes them. All this does is, like I said, reduce the light that hits the film, preventing overexposure. The advantage to this method is that you can still have full use of the light/dark dial to tweak exposure. The downside, for me, is that it just feels...unnatural. Yeah, I know, who cares, it works - but for some reason I see placing a dark piece of plastic in front of your Polaroid as not quite right. I can't even really explain why I feel this way. It's just not for me. I want the purity of natural color, if that makes sense. But it's the most common way of dealing with 600 film in the SX-70.
So the other option is to do a minor modification to the camera, which was my route. This site does a great job of explaining the process. And he actually does the mod and uses an ND filter on the front of the camera, so you can see how both work.
Now, one step I totally avoided was the cutting up of a CD case. This is not an easy task...and it's a bit thicker so it doesn't fit quite right. I just used a piece of clear acetate, like you buy in sheets at an art store. All you are wanting to do is make a cover to keep the dust out, and acetate is thick enough that you would have to try to poke it out with a finger, yet thin enough that you can just cut it out with scissors. Here is the old filter and the clear acetate over the opening.


Simple enough. So this kind of changes the way the camera automatically adjusts for exposure. But, you can't just open the cover and shoot. To prevent overexposure, you need to turn the light/dark wheel to the dark side. You have to do this every time you open your camera, as it will reset to the middle when you close the camera.


Sounds like kind of a pain to remember to do this, but opening up the camera is a project in itself, so it's just another small step. I don't think I've forgotten more than twice. Of course, the downside to this method is that you don't have full range of exposure tweaking control. You can tweak moderately in the darkened range. Here you see what happens if you leave the dial centered as opposed to all the way to the dark side, late in the day but sunny.



So you can tweak in the range, with a variety of results. It's just much more sensitive to adjustment, as the dial range is much smaller. Also, the light you are shooting in makes a big difference. Because of its propensity for overexposure, the camera does quite well in shade, with richer and truer colors.


Though it's just as worthy, and perhaps prettier, to use it in interesting lighting situations, like a bright sunset.



The other trick you need to do to use 600 in an SX-70 is to make the pack fit in the camera. This isn't nearly as difficult as it sounds. They are the exact same shape. The only difference is that 600 packs have tabs on the bottom to prevent them from being accidentally used in SX-70s (as both film types were available for quite awhile).


Some people like to cut all these little tabs off to make the pack slide into the SX-70. An easier way is to just stick something under the pack, say an old Polaroid or that black sheet that pops out of the pack, until it slides over the sticky point, then pulling the sheet back out and pushing the pack in the rest of the way.




So, why mess with an SX-70 when there are cameras available that use 600 film? Beside just looking cooler, you have more control with an SX-70. The currently available One600 (and I think pretty much all 600 cameras) are autofocus (or fixed focus) with a built-in flash that always goes off. While they have their place and can be fun, generally the image is pretty straightforward with little depth of field. And it doesn't focus at less than three feet, I think, while an SX-70 lets you get six inches from your subject.
Here is a One600 shot, ripped from its plastic frame.


The autoflash makes everything a bit surreal, and the colors are more 'natural' than those taken with the SX-70. In other words, generally boring. Here is a shot taken with the One600 out in a field with a summer storm arriving...


While not horrible, it's just a bit odd looking. It has an artificial diorama feel to it because of the flash, and the closer stuff is washed out. That being said, it has its place as a 'quick! run and take a shot' camera, and also works well with expired film.



So using 600 in a 600 camera isn't all that bad. The SX-70, though, just has its own bit of magic going for it. The depth of field is amazing, allowing for incredibly soft, pretty pictures that have an otherworldly quality to them.




The shutter will also stay open for a very long time in low light situations, allowing for some interesting indoor shooting. 600 does have a tendency towards warmer, yellow tones when exposed for longer periods in low light.




So I highly recommend picking up an SX-70 if you want to enjoy 600 (and 779) film while you can.
There is one other type of SX-70 camera, the OneStep. These are kind of the precursors to the 600 models. Fixed-focus, non-folding cameras. This is perhaps the most famous model, and maybe one of the more 'recognized' Polaroid camera models. There is some variety on the color schemes for this model.


I opened it up to see what it looks like on the inside and to see if a similar mod could be done.


Other than it looking like the inside of a Dalek (sans little squishy alien), I couldn't see much I could do with it. And the plastic covering the light meter is already clear, so what do you replace it with? Clearer plastic? So the only real answer for this camera is to use real Time Zero, or get a filter. I did stick a pack of 600 in this one to see what it would do. It behaved very badly. I had to press the red button three times before it would spit out the black sheet. Then I had to press it a couple times to actually get a shot out of it. Then the shutter wouldn't open anymore. The packed worked fine when I transfered it to the SX-70. Here I am doing my best Principle Richard bull horns imitation (The Breakfast Club for the uncool out there...though I have issues with that movie and its 'you have to not be weird to fit in' message, but don't get me started on that).


That will probably be the last shot I ever take with the thing. Feel free to buy one and experiment, though. Oh, and NEVER pay more than maybe $12 for one of these things. I see people selling them for $75. They are very, very common and you can't do much with them. Other than being kind of cool looking on a shelf, they aren't that useful and aren't particularly collectible.
Always a fun site to read, check out The Branding of Polaroid. I wonder where the name SX-70 came from? It's so technical sounding. Maybe I'll email Mr. Giambarba and see if he knows. He designed the famous Polaroid rainbow. I've mentioned that in the past.


Anyway, that's all I can think of right now concerning the SX-70. On a sadder note...what will my kitties sleep on when Polaroid is gone?