Wednesday, November 16, 2011

FUJIPET GO!

I was recently sent a message by my internet provider saying that all free web space would be deleted in December because of "low usage". Well, my Fujipet site (link soon to be dead, I guess) will go bye bye, though it's had almost 23,000 Fujipet fans visiting since 2005. So instead of paying someone to host it, I figured I could just break it down into a series of blog posts. I haven't talked about the Fujipet on this blog, except to tear one apart, so what better opportunity?

Welcome! This blog post is dedicated to the Fujipet (フジペット) camera, made by Fuji Photo Film Co. from 1957 to 1963. I will mainly be covering the 120 style Fujipet (also nicknamed Thunderbird in Japan) here, but I will try to offer information about other models as I can. The Fujipet is considered a "toy camera." It isn't built like a toy camera, as the body is made of plastic and aluminum and is quite sturdy, but most of these cameras sport a plastic lens. It was intended as a starter camera for young people, easy enough that even "women and children" could use it.
When I saw my first Fujipet, I instantly fell in love with its design. To me, it is the epitome of 1950s Japanese futuristic style. It is art. It has Astroboy hair. It just looks COOL. When I finally found one (then two), I knew it was something special. Again, it just looks so COOL, and you look cool using it. When you carry it, people give you that "what the..." look. And, yes, it is fun and easy to use! What can it do? Check out the site, and I will do my best to let you in on everything I know about this little wonder. Which isn't a heck of a lot so far, but I hope to increase my knowledge base and share it with you.

THE CAMERAS

FUJIPET 6X6 120 CAMERA
As far as I know, there are three Fujipet models. The camera I will focus most of my attention on is the original 120 roll film camera as seen on the front page. It takes 12 6x6 shots on a roll of 120 film, color or black and white. It was first introduced in 1957 (Showa 32) with production ending in 1963 (Showa 38). There were minor design changes and a few different colors throughout its life, which I attempt to catalogue on the Camera Gallery page.

Technical Specifications:
- Plastic or glass, single element, fixed lens.
- 70mm.
- f11, f16, f22, two plate, with no detent.
- B, 1/50 leaf shutter.
- 6x6 cm ‘Buroni’ format (Bronica - 120 in Japan) for a 56 x 56 mm exposure.
- Base is tripod threaded.
- Flash shoe (cold, with ext sync socket).
- 120x100x75mm, weight:332g.

The key components are as follows:

The lens is plastic in some cameras and glass in others. It is fixed focus (seems to lose focus at around less than one meter). The main body is plastic, with the top being aluminum. The back and bottom piece is also aluminum. As you see, it has a two-lever shutter mechanism. You first press down 1, which "charges" or cocks the shutter, then press 2 to take the picture. Cocking the shutter does not open the shutter. The opening and closing is done by lever 2. I'm not sure why it was designed this way, as one-click cameras were available at the time. It's part of the charm. The shutter itself is a leaf-shutter. The textured color surfaces are glued onto the body. They tend to peel apart, but are easy to glue back on. There are two feet on the bottom for stabilization when storing. The aperture lever acts as the third foot. The notches on the sides are for the camera strap.

There are two shutter settings. I probably stands for Instant and B for bulb. The little red switch slides easily from one mode and back. In bulb mode, you can hold down 2 for as long as you want, keeping the shutter open for extended exposures. Here, you can see the counter window through the open shutter in bulb mode.

The aperture lever under the lens attached to a ring that surrounds the barrel. It slides smoothly from side to side.

The aperture ring offers 3 different graphics. I assume this was done to make it completely obvious for everyone using it. The right side offers apertures of 11, 16 and 22. The top is a visual representation of the aperture opening, from wide to small. The left side offers sunlight variations.

The hood is a simple aluminum or plastic ring that slides out from the body. It is loose and tends to move around a lot on its own. The first model had an aluminum hood, while most are plastic. Very late models seem to have some sort of plastic piece on the lens barrel to lock the hood in the out position. One thing to note about the plastic hoods is that they all have "burn" marks on them. Never appearing in the same place, eahc hood has its own special scar(s) that look as of they were damaged...but all of them have the burns. I have no idea what these are from...most likely some manufacturing foibles...but what, I couldn't say. So fear not if your Pet has these marks.

The Pet uses an external bulb sync flash. It fits on the shoe and plugs into the barrel. Note the hood must be extended to plug in the flash on most models. The plug is closer to the body on early Pets. Releasing the shutter sets off the flash. I don't know if there is an official Fujipet flash.

The Fujipet winds film to the left (as you hold the camera) instead of to the right. I have no idea how common this is with 120 cameras. The film rolls through upside down, but there are upright numbers on 120 film for this design, so it must not be unusual. The back side has a counter window for viewing the numbers on the film. The silver piece on the bottom serves as a tripod mount and holds the back cover of the camera.

The Fujipet next to a 35mm camera for size comparison.

And next to a Diana, or Diana clone in this case.

Note that the Fujipet does not generally leak light. It has a solid aluminum back that screws tightly into place. This kind of goes against the trend for toy cameras. Most toy cameras are built very cheaply (Dianas and Holgas), or are just very old (Brownies and box cameras). The plastic lens makes the camera a toy. There are a few later models that sport a glass lens, and I don't consider the 35mm cameras to be toys, as they are basically "real" cameras, though very cool looking real cameras. My black Fujipet does have some kind of leak on the side that adds a large flare, but I'm told this is very rare. My guess is the seam isn't flush...but I don't really mind. The red Pet has no leaks.
To counter the plastic lens effects (mainly vignetting), the film plane on the inside of the camera is curved. You can see this in the photos that aren't cropped on the Photo Gallery page. I find it particularly interesting that they spent so much time designing a very well-built camera that counters the effects of a plastic lens, rather than just using a glass lens. I guess the initial R&D stage was cheaper than producing precision glass lenses for all the cameras sold.
In creating this camera, Fuji intended to open up the Japanese photography market by including women, children and beginners. Until then, photography had generally required high-end equipment (other world markets had already introduced popular "family friendly" cameras, such as the Brownie, long before). Design was a joint venture between Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and the Konan camera laboratory. Fuji sold nearly a million Fujipets by 1963, making a domestic sales record at the time. The original selling price was 1950 yen. To distinguish the 120 from the other Fujipet models, it earned the nickname "Thunderbird."

Words from a Fujipet User
The camera for boys & girls of Fuji and its name was also Fujipetto. The factory of Fuji Film was located on the north side of Imaizumi Elementary School (in the old Yoshiwara city, in Fuji prefecture).
Nobody used full names these days, so it was only called the ‘Film’. The company houses were also along side the school, and a classmate’s father was a factory manager there (Suzuki-san).
A monthly manga was our favorite magazine – we used to read it while eating chipped-ice in our favorite mom-and-pop candy store. One day I went to play in Suzuki-san’s house and we discovered an accumulation of ‘Children’s’ Science’ magazine. We did not have money to buy such magazine, we were very enviable, and went crazy and read.
Since Suzuki-san was Film employee, although I do not know if he was ‘rich’, he had Fujipet laying in his house.
Then probably Fujipet was considered garbage and thrown away. Now it is remembered in our hearts…

FUJIPET 120EE
The Fujipet 120 EE was introduced in 1961. It uses no batteries, just a selenium cell to move a snappy variable slot aperture over the opening depending on how much light there is. Note the single lever for releasing the shutter.

The later model EE, commonly referred to as EE-2, looks about the the same but has a meter sensitivity knob added to the side Also note the gold badge and the differences on the lens. I believe this camera was made for export due to the increase in popularity of color film in the US and Europe. This information and photo come from this site.


PET 35
The Pet 35, a 35mm version of the camera, was introduced in 1959 to meet the needs of the growing 35mm market. This camera employs the dual levers and can be focused.

I have a Pet 35, and I haven't used it. So at some point that will happen and then the Pet 35 will get its very own blog post! In any case, on to more information about the cameras...

COLOR VARIATIONS
The 120 came in various colors. I'm not sure how production runs and year produced relates to the available colors. Some colors are fairly common and seen on different models, while others are very rare. Grey, or black, is the most common and easiest to find.

Red seems to be the second most available color...my personal favorite.

Green is a bit more difficult to find.

Brown is also very rare.

An interesting and rare green Pet with gold trim. I didn't realize it was different until I had it sitting next to a silver Fujipet. Note that the badge is bronze with green paint.

This is an interesting brown Pet with its red marbling on the back. Mine has green marbling. The Japanese Fuji site lists a grey as a Fujipet color. This is probably the same color I call brown.

A rare yellow pet with gold body. The only one I've seen so far!

This transparent Pet may be one of a kind. It can't be used because the film would be exposed, but it looks to be operational. It may have been a demonstration model. It is also an early model Pet. This sold for 39,500 yen! though having seen regular Pets go for $400 on eBay, maybe it doesn't seem so expensive.

As far as I know, the Fujipet EE camera was produced only in black. The EE-2 has a gold badge on the front.

The most common color for the Pet 35 is black.

With green being very rare...

This is the Pet 35 "Astroboy Special". It was probably a prize or sold at a comic fair. The kana on the bottom says "1959 Manga Matsuri". I borrowed these images from this site.

Here you can see another yellow 120 with gold trim. The Pet 35 came in various colors...black, pink, teal and red, at least. There are two EEs in the photo, but I can't tell if they are different. The group photo is borrowed from this site. I have also seen listed for the 120 the colors blue, yellow (with silver trim?) and peach, but cannot verify that they do exist. They may be have been referring to the Pet 35, as the peach and blue could be pink and teal.

I don't have a lot of information on the Fujipet EE. Other than there being two versions, the original with the red badge and the EE-2 with the gold badge and the sensitivity knob, I don't see much variation between these cameras. The only one I know of for sure is the color of the Fuji Film sticker inside.

THUNDERBIRD
Before the Fujipet that we all know and love, there was... The FUJIPET. Actually, it's still just a Fujipet, but the original model was different in many ways. I haven't really thought of a cool nickname for this model to differentiate it, though I've heard it referred to as the Thunderbird by a friend. I usually refer to it as the first-generation Pet or simply Pet-1.
The biggest difference is in weight. Pet-1 is much heavier than the remodeled Pet. It feels, and looks, more serious than later Pets. Viewed from the front, the levers are slightly skewed. The shutter mechanism is a little bit different and can't be swapped with the later model. The fake leather is much smoother and actually feels like leather. The Pet-2 feels distinctly plastic. The badge is more silver compared to that on Pet-2 (non-gold models), which have a slight bronze color. Overall, a heftier build. Pet-1 is most common in black with silver trim. It is also less common than Pet-2, but there doesn't seem to be any difference in value between the two.

The second most obvious difference is the hood. It is made out of aluminum and is much lighter than the plastic hood on the Pet-2. You can see it is rolled on the end. It is very loose and actually quite annoying. There are small clips on the side that one could possibly bend inward to hold it in place, but it would probably only scratch the barrel.

Another major difference is the placement of the flash plug. It is below the hood, while Pet-2 keeps it under the hood. Visually, this doesn't make that much of a difference, but it changes the design of the shutter plate, keeping you from swapping these parts between Pet-1 and Pet-2. You can actually put the Pet-1 shutter plate in Pet-2 with some degree of success (i think it's always on Bulb), but the Pet-2 plate will not fit into Pet-1.

On the back, we can see that the counter window has a cover, as opposed to the Pet-2 at far right. Again, this is more annoying than anything, and tends to tear up the leatherette.

Inside there are four screws instead of the 3 found in Pet-2. The film winder screw is also different, requiring some sort of camera caliper deal that I don't have. Another minor variation not pictured is with the screw mount on the bottom of the camera. It is smoother and doesn't grip to your fingers as the Pet-2 mount does.

Overall, a very different feel to the first-generation Pet. It's hard to describe, but you feel it when you hold it. The parts are heavier and have a more solid feel to them (except for the aluminum hood). It feels more like a "real" camera, and even has a somewhat less retro look to it than the Pet-2. The Pet-2 isn't a lesser build, it's just lighter and feels a bit more 1960s, while Pet-1 has more of a 1950s feel.Pet-2 does seem a bit cheaper when held alongside Pet-1, but this is probably because it was cheaper to make. Which do I prefer? Pet-2, most definitely. Pet-1 has a few issues that make it less fun to use, such as the hood and the window cover. Also, the bulb switch is very loose, something I'm told is common for these models. Makes for a lot of blurry photos. There doesn't seem to be any correlation between glass and plastic lenses and older and newer Pets. I don't know the reason for that particular variation.

Most first-gen Pets are black, but they were also made in red and green. These are definetely rare and even bring a higher price in Japan, where the Pets are cheaper in general. I haven't seen the green variation, and this is the only red I've seen. It's a very nice looking camera!

OTHER VARIATIONS
There are other variations between Fujipets, regardless of Pet-1 or Pet-2 status. The most obvious would be the date stamp under the top metal piece. Every Pet I've seen has a different stamp, which also appears under the leatherette on the bottom of the camera. I assume the middle is the Showa date. 33 would be 1958... how that compares with the 9 9 30, I have no idea. The bottom is possibly who built the camera, or where it was built. I think that the name at bottom right is Muranaka, but that's with my bad Kanji skills. The others all have too many strokes for me to figure out.

This is the only Pet I've seen with a stamp under the viewfinder, as well as under the metal frame.

Two different decals for Fuji film that appear on the inside back of the camera.

This pet has a screw holding the shutter plate in place. It was a later model Pet with the plastic hood, but it's the only one I've seen built this way. I'm told that some first-generation Pets had this.

The typical shutter plate with no screw as seen above. It is just held in place by the front plastic lens mount screw.


I guess that's enough Fujipet overload for now...to come are extra goodies, manuals and a camera breakdown!

Fujipet Goodies...mmmmm!

Fujipet Maintenance

Fujipet Manuals

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Polaroid Instant Camera...Let's Make!

I have bags of camera parts just sitting and waiting to be used. Most will remain parts, lonely and apart from useful photographic tools. Some, though, join together and make a new man...Filmy Camerason.
What the heck am I going on about? No idea. Actually, I was just bored and made a very simple camera. And I am going to share it with all of you to show that you can also make a simple camera! Wheee! And to make it even more special, we are making a Polaroid camera. Wheee again!
Okay, anyway, all you need are some spare parts. Not just any spare parts, of course. You can't make a camera from a dried up marker and banana peels. Well, actually you probably could, but I'm not doing that. What I have is a broken Polaroid back (though it still works fine), and a Diana lens that I cut off a camera some time ago. And a cardboard box and tape. Plus some rulers type things and something to cut stuff with, scissors and Exacto to be exact. If you want a "working camera", it is important that your lens has a shutter and some way to fire the shutter. If not, you will just have an open lens and no way to control exposure.

The basic idea here is to make a camera body from the cardboard box, tape it to the Polaroid back, and tape the lens on the front. Simple!
First we need to figure out the focal length of our camera. the Diana lens has to be a certain distance from our film plane to be in focus. Easiest way to do this is the measure that distance on a Diana camera.

We then measure and cut out the sides of our camera. The height should be the same as what we measured on our original Diana.

The lengths should be measured using the slots in the Polaroid back.

For those who are not math geniuses, you will need four pieces, one for each side. Tape these together and you have the beginning of your camera body. Use black electrical tape because you want your camera to be light proof.

The next step is to make the front of your camera body. Because cardboard is so thick, you want the front to inset into your camera body or you will be adding an extra 1/8 of an inch or so to your focal length, which might screw with your camera's focus. The easiest way to do this is to set your walls onto a piece of cardboard and mark the interior dimensions, then just cut it out!

Before we tape the body together, we need to cut out a hole in the front for the lens. It won't be centered on the cardboard, because the body actually extends farther on one side sue to the shape of the Polaroid back (as seen above). So Just do a bit of measuring, or just guess bases on setting the lens where you think it should be if you feel lucky. The hole should be smaller than the diameter of the lens barrel, but larger than the aperture.

After this, we can tape out lens to the cardboard. I found that taping underneath was plenty to hold the lens and seal it from light.

Now we just need to tape it all together. Pay special attention to corners, and I taped the box to the Polaroid back on the inside. Check for light leaks with a flashlight in a dark room. They will show up as points of light. You need to be sure to seal all leaks before putting film in your camera.

So there you are! An ugly, but usable camera! No viewfinder, but just aim in the general direction that you want to shoot. Let's take it out for a spin...

Yikes! That kind of sucks! Looks like S. H. I. T. Hmmm...that doesn't seem to have the same effect as spelling it out loud. But I knew they would turn out like this. The Diana shoots a 4x4cm photo on a negative, which is pretty darn small. It wasn't designed to cover the area of a Polaroid. This is the same thing that happens with those Holgaroid backs. If you cropped the image down to its presentable size, you might get something like this.

So, okay, I don't really like the results. What else can I do with this? How do I get a full frame on my homemade camera? Simple answer? Pinhole. I've done this before. And before. And again. But this is even a more basic pinhole camera that anyone can make. So we take that lens off, grab some aluminum foil and tape it over the hole in our camera.

Grab a pin and poke a hole in the foil...hence the name "pinhole".

It's really not as big as this macro shot makes it look. It is about the diameter of a needle. And, yes, it's all ragged. The pinhole size and how clean the edges are has a direct effect on your image...how sharp it is, how long to expose, etc. As well, the focal length (how far your pinhole is away from the film surface) effects the image as well. The closer you are to the film plane, the wider the image, or the "more you see". The wider pinholes tend to have a tunnel effect with things stretching out towards the edges of the shot. If you make a pinhole and skip the lens part, you can just pick a random height for your cardboard body.
So my pinhole is big, ragged, and close to the film. Who cares? It's still cool because I made it, and yours will be as well. But not as cool as mine.
Anyway, for a shutter, I just use a piece of black tape and fold over the end. You just need to peel back to expose the hole and then recover.

For Polaroid film in full sun with an average needle pinhole, you will probably need to expose for no more than one second. Basically peel back and then cover...not quickly but don't take your time. You can adjust depending on results. Inside your exposures can be as long as 10-30 minutes. And you rarely get it right on your first or second shot. It's certainly an easy way to waste a $10+ pack of Polaroid film! So let's see how mine does...dog shot!

Your image is also dependent on motion. If your subject is moving, it will show in that short exposure time, which is quite long compared to a mechanical shutter exposure. Also think about your hands. It is difficult to hold the camera, and then peel and replace your tape shutter without any kind of camera shake, even trying to brace it on a table or the ground. I've used a tripod in the past with decent results. There are ways, but this is just a screw-around pinhole camera for fun, so let's not take it too seriously.
Pinholes are also good for self portraits! You can try lots of things, like hiding it in the grass, aiming towards the sun or whatnot. And you can get as close to your pinhole as you want! The closer, the better, as long as you have light on your subject (my face). Shot with Fuji FP-100C and expired Type 108.

I'm not a huge pinhole fan, but they can be fun at times. Good project if you have kids. If you don't have a Polaroid back, you can make a pinhole camera out of just about anything. Take the lens off of any film camera and put some foil on the front, poke a hole in it and you have a pinhole camera. If the camera has "B" setting, you can actually use that as your exposure method. If not, just rip out the shutter and use tape! I also used to make pinhole cameras from large boxes and put photo paper inside and exposed them outside for 30 minutes or so. Lots of options, and there are plenty of pinhole resources out there, most more serious than my silly camera. Some involve lots of math...which doesn't sound like much fun. Anyway, enjoy making stuff!
Until I think of something else to write about!